If not for the wastegate, the boost pressure would continue to rapidly rise to disastrous levels. The wastegate actuator, which is the can shaped object mounted on the turbo except on external wastegate systems , forms part of the pneumatic system which controls the wastegate. Boost pressure is delivered to the actuator via a small hose from the compressor outlet, thus forming a control loop.
As the boost pressure rises, this pressure begins to open the wastegate via the actuator to slow the build up of boost until the set level is reached. This sends a lower boost signal to the actuator, so that the wastegate will remain closed for longer, thus increasing the boost level.
Ball-and-spring, or bleed type? The claim is that pressure is held back from the wastegate to prevent it from opening prematurely, and only allowing pressure in once the boost level is almost reached. Whilst this sounds good in theory, in practice it does not always work.
GFB boost controllers are all bleed-style, which uses a restrictor a small precision hole in the pressure inlet nipple and a taper needle adjustment. The restrictor plays a very important role, which must not be underestimated. Basically, without the restrictor, the adjustment needle would not be able to bleed off enough air to lower the pressure reaching the wastegate actuator.
The turbo is pumping more than enough air to overcome such a small bleed. By placing a restrictor in the flow path, with the bleed on the other side, the air cannot pass fast enough to overcome the bleed, therefore the pressure will drop at the actuator and boost will rise.
This explains why if you install the controller backwards, you will not be able to raise the boost. You are using an out of date browser.
It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Stupid question about external wastegate install.. Thread starter empie1 Start date Apr 22, My question is where do I run the lines?
I know the one on top of the waste gate goes to the pressure source compressor housing in my case So do I just cap that one off untill then? Connect the bottom or side port to your pressure source and leave the top port open. An external is hooked up "backwards" compared to a dual port internal. Oldman had a great write up on it, I'm trying to find it again. EDIT: found it. Phew, I was worried I was going to have to type this out oldman said:. Let's break it down into different situations for better understanding.
With both ports open, much like leave the fitting on an internal wastegate fitting open, the wastegate is suppose to hold approximately 2x the spring pressure its ability to hold back exhaust pressure.
No boost controllers but both top and bottom connected to straight intake pressure, the result is the same as 1, 28psi. No boost controller but with side port connected to intake pressure signal and top port VTA, much like running no MBC with an internal wastegate, the wastegate will hold exact the spring pressure.
EBC or bleeder MBC, side port sees intake pressure which will result in 3 , the outlet of EBC or bleeder connects to the top port, for every psi the top port sees, there is one PSI increase in intake pressure. Note, a bleeder MBC will work in reverse in adjustment as in an internal gate environment, the more pressure you bleed off, the less the top port sees, the lower the boost level. No pressure will be sent to the side port until the spring pressure in the MBC is overcomed, just like an internal setup.
Let's put it in examples of running a ball and spring mbc using the TIAL instruction, assuming the wastegate spring pressure is 14psi. MBC all the way out no pressure on the ball , top and bottom port sees the same pressure, you get 2, 28psi.
MBC all the way in max pressure on the ball , nothing gets sent to the top port, you get 3, 14psi. There is only one way the connectors can go, so no way they can be flipped or installed backwards. Re-started car, same codes.. This sucks. When the engine cools again I will return to stock config and hopefully it just goes away..
Defective Harness? What would have been a minute job now has burned my entire morning into the afternoon. Attached Images. Removed EWG harness, stock connect back in, all is normal again That eliminates anything being screwed up on the EWG connector or elsewhere phew Im just glad i did not install the EWG harness when i first installed the JB4 a week ago I would of had to pull the whole thing off to troubleshoot.
Everything works fine without it.. Bad Harness? Invisible gremlin? Payam BMS. Was away for the week, sorry for the delay. Here is a picture as requested. Terry BMS. Photo of those? Find all posts by Terry BMS. Should look like this on the jb4. For n55 F series.. Yup, looks like i plugged my EWG blue into pin 14 instead of 16 eyes must be getting old. Pulled it out and will crimp on a new male DB pin and plug in the right place and try again.
Also, I had to snap off the old pin in the 14 location did not have the removal tool I see in the diagram above you have a PI yellow and a PI white in pins 1 and I don't have those, what are they for? If i need do yuse them I can get a pin removal tool to get the old pin out of the occupied 14 snapped off pin if not ill just leave it there, no harm done. Pi in the diagram is referring to my Port injection controller.
You wont need those spots unless you install a port injection system later.. The required DSUB removal tool is tricky to use even if you happen to have one.
If the wires were swapped - , AM. If the wires were swapped would the ewg connector still even work what behavior would i see if it were swapped. EWG cable trials and errors - , AM. I am having the same issue and have been since I installed it. Recently I have tried a few things to diagnose and recorded a few noted scenarios when the code gets thrown. Without it I am locked in at My local area has 93 octane. When I throw in an octane booster and 93 gas with ewg I can hit So I know the EWG connector is working despite the codes.
Through another forum it has been suggested to hit the start button with out stepping on the break to let the car sort of boot up before starting.
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